Out and about explorations
Living a nomadic lifestyle
Archives
October 2022
July 2021
June 2021
April 2021
January 2021
December 2020
November 2020
July 2020
June 2020
Living a nomadic lifestyle
October 2022
July 2021
June 2021
April 2021
January 2021
December 2020
November 2020
July 2020
June 2020
It’s no news to any of us that we are in a time of a crisis of global magnitude, medically, politically and economically. Our focus is and should be, on keeping ourselves and loved ones safe and healthy both physically and mentally. With volumes of news and information, credible and not credible, coming at us from all sides, it is hard to avoid the prevailing stress. How we handle that is so important to our mental health. Janet and I were in Boston celebrating the birth of our newest grandson, Reed Lawrence Rothbart. In a very troubled world, the gift of new life gives us hope for the future and realization and hope of the blessings to come. We left our motor coach in Florida and headed, first to Michigan then on to Boston. After the birth of Reed, Janet and I headed back to Florida. My sister is graciously letting us hunker down at her place until it is safe for us to get back on the road. All of our recent running around contributed to an overwhelming feeling of displacement. This, we feel, is a natural response and certainly part of the journey.
With the federal and state orders, increasing daily, to shelter in place and lockdown it can produce feelings of loneliness and isolation for all of us along with generating feelings of anxiety. Loneliness can be somewhat alleviated through social media, facetiming, skyping etc. While traveling by car to Florida we listened to NPR radio, probably way too much. A few stories we heard, frequently, were about isolation even when people are at home with other people. This isolation stretches beyond our present surroundings and is possibly more a result of being separated from family and friends. The element of that feeling being self-induced might be present, but we all know, letting it go is easier said than done. You can only read so many books and watch a finite number of movies and then those depressive feelings return. So, what’s the remedy. Fact of the matter is, we don’t know. Getting rid of this virus is probably the answer. That’s the second question. Answer to that is, hunker down, keep recommended distances and do what’s necessary. If we work as a unified team, we will beat this. The more we resist, the longer the period of pain and suffering we will have to endure. As this crisis persists the economic fallout will be beyond anything we have experienced in our lifetime. Get serious, get real and lets all focus on being kind and considerate to each other. This crisis has no boundaries. We are all in this together and the only way out is if we work together. Stay safe, stay home, stay healthy, share some love and listen to and get your information from credible sources.
0 Comments
In reality, life throws many diversions our way whether we are travelers or homebodies. Yes, we all have laundry and other household chores, provisioning, entertainment and social commitments, financial management and, for some of us…Cancer. That’s right, the word was said in a loud voice, shouted to the rooftops…Cancer. Now, that is most definitely something that can alter plans, in general, not withstanding, travel plans.
August 2019, Janet and I had just come from a month long stay in Massachusetts enjoying time spent with family, friends and exploring the metro Boston area. Our next stop was the Catskill Mountains region along with a visit to Bethel Woods (Woodstock) during the 50th anniversary of the iconic music and art festival in 1969. We used an RV resort in Accord, NY as our home base while touring the beautiful rural, mountainous countryside. On one of our daily, self-guided excursions I experienced a rectal bleed. What a fun surprise. Now, what’s a person to do? Answer, get my bleeding ass to an emergency room and that is exactly what we did. I actually drove with my trusted navigation guru, Janet, guiding the way. I am saving all of the butt fixing detail for yes, a short story, titled Cancer Among Friends, which I am co-writing with my buddy and another cancer survivor, John Lepisto. Anyway, it should be published, hopefully before the summer. Ah, think about sitting by the pool or on the beach on a beautiful warm sunny day, your favorite drink in hand, reading a story about two friends with cancer experiences. Ya gotta love it. Ya actually don’t gotta but I love to write and if you read it, you’ll make John and I feel like our survival was not in vain. So, what does cancer have to do with travel, well, not much except for the fact that it puts a little damper on plans, especially during the informational limbo and recovery parts of the experience. For me, I guess surviving Sepsis, stroke and open-heart surgery in the winter of 2015 were not enough, so I just had to throw cancer into the health mix. I have always said, if you are going to jump feet first into the ring the rest of your body should follow. Without blowing the whole story, I had some adenocarcinoma cells in the polyps that were found by colonoscopy. I said, colonoscopy and just imagine it being said over and over again. If you have had one, two or more, good for you. If you are putting it off, get your sorry ass in to a gastroenterologist or colorectal surgeon and get it done. Ya, I was one of those put it off guys. Janet and I were told by the gastroenterologist in Kingston, NY that I needed to see a colorectal surgeon because I had cancer and I needed to become de-cancered. We had a month-long trip planned in Europe and he said we should go but needed to address the medical issue as soon as we returned. After we got back from Europe at the end of September with our cousins and traveling buddies, Bob and JoAnne, Janet and I hightailed it back to Grand Rapids and went for the surgical consultation with a highly qualified colorectal specialist we had found. Again, I am not chucking out the whole story but the surgeon ran three weeks of comprehensive studies and tests and determined that the cancer had not spread but she would need to resect my large intestine and perform a J loop, temporary ileostomy, while my colon rested and healed. The nine-hour, robotic surgical procedure was successful, and the good news was all of the 25 nodes examined and margins were clear. Great relief to know I would not need any chemo or radiation. So, with my temporary ileostomy in place and my maintenance classes complete, I was discharged from the hospital. Two weeks later, Janet and I were back on the road traveling to warmer weather conditions in Florida. I had the surgery in November and three months later it was ileostomy reversal time. So back to Grand Rapids for the takedown surgery which took place two weeks ago and I am cancer and ileostomy free, ready to resume our normal lives, whatever normal is. Moral of the story is, whether you sit around, lead an active life, travel or homebody, understand that shit happens and it often times will mess up your plans. You don’t necessarily need to be prepared although a little mental stability goes a long way, but embrace flexibility because wrenches thrown into the gears can happen in the blink of an eye and we all know, if you live long enough, the wrenches will be a flyin. We left the Eustis, Mt Dora area after a two week stay which gave us a chance to relax and do a little exploring. This is and is going to be a busy time for us another grandchild on the way, wrapping up some medical stuff and getting ready for our return to Europe. We are fast learning the logistics of storing our home as needed. The process is similar to doing the same as living in a sticks and bricks and securing the place while away. The difference for us is we literally move our home to a secure location and shut components and systems down as necessary. After you do it once it’s just a matter of meticulously following a checklist.
From Eustis we headed to Flagler Beach, an area in Florida that has a unique look and feel of old Florida. Having lived in and traveled through the State, it, for the most part, is crowded, over built and congested with people and traffic. The Flagler area is refreshingly, a total opposite. The low architectural profile with no structures built along the beach, make it very visually appealing to us. We set up our home front at Bulow Plantation. Having enjoyed staying there last year we came back for more. We don’t consider ourselves shy, but, for the most part, we stayed low key. It is nice chatting with our neighbors, hanging out at the beach front bars, exploring the area and visiting with friends who live in the area. We did, in fact, get to spend a little time with friends who we traveled with while we lived in Virginia. They relocated to St Augustine Beach and we had dinner with them at a tasty fish restaurant in Flagler Beach. The quality and selection of fish in Florida, on both sides of the state, is second to none. One night, Janet and I went to Smirnoff day at a local beach side watering hole. The drinks were good, along with the small plate hand food and it was fun for the two of us to hang out at a local pub. When traveling, wherever you are, it is oftentimes a treat to seek out the local businesses and restaurants as it gives you a chance to enjoy what the area has to offer. One afternoon we saw water pouring out of our neighbor’s rig. We, along with a man from the rig on the other side of his, knocked on his door and the only response was his barking dog on the inside. We turned off the water to his rig and the flow of water stopped. The three of us were concerned that he possibly had a medical issue and collapsed in his shower. The RV resort office called the fire department after they were not able to reach him on his cell phone. Fire/EMS came, and they did their best to look through the windows as they did not want to break in if they did not have to. They were able to slide one of the windows opened and were greeted by his little dog, Mr. Magoo. It was determined that our neighbor was not onboard, and everything seemed secure, so they packed up and left. About a half hour later our neighbor rolled in on his bicycle and we, after telling him how glad we were to see him, went through the whole story. When he opened the door and went inside, he was glad to see there was no water damage and was grateful that we had turned off the main water. Apparently, Mr. Magoo climbed up on the bathroom sink and while looking for food he turned on the water which overflowed and poured out of the back of the rig. Fortunately, it was in the bathroom and the water was contained. We all had a good laugh and told Mr. Magoo that he was punished and restricted from any dog fun for the rest of the day. Think of some of the crazy events that have made your travel experiences memorable. Sometimes it’s the little, silly, things that stand out bring a smile to your face. After our arrival in Florida our first stay was in Eustis near the infamous The Villages, the retirement metropolis in Leesburg, FL. Our original plan was to go to Fredericksburg, Texas and stay in that area for a few months. We have not been there before but heard it is a terrific place for exploration and also happens to be a formidable wine region in Texas. Not being far from Austin and San Antonio we thought there would be enough in the region to keep us busy and well entertained. Having family and other obligations in the Mid-West and Northeast we needed to be in a place with easy transportation via flying and at the time of our initial plans there were no direct flights available to us from that area of the Lone Star State. We just found out that has changed and there are now direct flights to where we need to go. Oh well, too little, too late so here we are in Florida enjoying some warm weather and also having the opportunity to visit with some family and friends.
We chose the area for our initial stay because it was one of the only places near where we wanted to be that had available space for our rig. This time of the year, Florida gets very busy for RVers from the US and Canada. Warm weather during the cold winter months makes Florida a desired location. Come the spring everyone bails out to avoid the unbearable humidity and heat along with the infamous swarms of love bugs. We left the Eustis, Mt Dora area and headed to Flagler Beach. This area of Florida, just south of St Augustine is one of our favorite areas in the state. Beautiful beach on the Atlantic with no high-rise condos to block the view. Lots of local restaurants and beach bars are a great place to hang out, enjoy good conversation and have a few drinks. The RV resort, Bulow Plantation, is a nice place to call home for a while. We came here last year and enjoyed a nice RV crowd of folks just chilling out from many different parts of the country. We enjoy the good mix of quiet time and a little socializing. In a few weeks we will head out of here and venture over to the Florida west coast where we will visit with some family and friends along with more air travel to the north and mid-west. We are loving our free to roam lifestyle. Granted, it’s not all fun and games as we still have to do laundry and take out the trash. So, for now, be happy, be healthy, live your dreams and love the ones you are wit After two months stay In Grand Rapids, spending quality time with family and friends, along with taking care of some needed medical care, we are back on the road. We left Michigan in the midst of a snowstorm and fiercely cold temperatures with plans for warmer weather. Because it was so cold, we had to winterize our motorhome. It is not a big deal to do and just requires nontoxic antifreeze and following a step by step procedure to make sure all of the water is out of the lines, water heater drained, and the freshwater tank completely drained as well. When we left Michigan, it was still too cold to de-winterize so our first stop, in Indianapolis, was at a hotel for an overnight. It was cold and snowy there as well and we had to wait until we got as far south as Lexington, KY before the snow disappeared and the temps were consistently above freezing. In addition to the heating and AC in the cockpit area we have two gas furnaces for heating the living space along with separate AC and an onboard 4000-watt generator. It makes us pretty self-sufficient, energy wise. Big drawback is running the furnaces for heat takes a lot of propane. When we run just the water heater, oven/stove and duel fuel refrigerator/freezer the propane consumption is minimal. Add the heat and it goes up astronomically.
We finally arrived in Nashville for our stay at an RV resort in Goodlettsville. When we pulled in the owners and staff were out to greet us with over the top southern hospitality. Their warmth and welcoming attitude were duly noticed as a first impression. When we unhooked our car from the back of the coach Janet tried to start it and guess what … it was dead. Thinking it was the battery we pulled out our portable charger, hooked it to the battery and still nothing. Within seconds we had a gathering of the owners, staff and other RVers crowding around the car with enough suggestions and apparent knowledge to have more than enough material for an automotive repair book. After about an hour of no starting luck we decided to call our roadside assistance company. They were at our car in about fifteen minutes and guess what? They were not able to start the car. Fortunately, being under warranty with Chevy we called a local dealership who arranged to have the car towed to their location the next morning. Being without a car sucks as we cannot take the motorhome for a market run … well we actually could but that would mean raising the hydraulic leveling jacks, pulling in the slides, disconnecting the water and black and grey water tank slinky and the shore power electric. If we did all of that and drove to the market, we then would have to find a place to park and once we picked up a few groceries we would drive back and repeat the set-up process all over again. Wasn’t going to happen and a testament to having a car with us. I preface by saying, a car that works. The next morning the car was picked up and brought to the dealership. They sent a courtesy car to pick me up and bring me over to pick up a loaner while our car was being repaired. Being over Christmas it was not easy to get the needed parts, which turned out to be an electric sensor, so, a week later we had our car back. Yeah. Needless to say, we were so happy our car was under full warranty and there were no out of pocket expenses. This was our second visit to Nashville, the first being last year with two weeks of solid rain. This visit was much better, weather wise, and allowed us to do more exploring. Nashville is not called music city for nothing. There is quality music everywhere you go, including nightly acts at the RV resort we stayed at. We enjoyed going to some of the bars on Broadway, downtown. It was fun listening to music, having some drinks and people watching. There is no shortage of people in Nashville and being tourists ourselves, we fit right in. The locals, both at the RV resort and other places we went to are so warm and welcoming. When people are outgoing and friendly is just makes you feel good and feel good, we did. From Nashville we ventured south into Georgia for what we thought was going to be a few hours road trip. That was not the case as we drove much longer that we like. I am good for about three hours behind the wheel with a break to stretch about every hour and a half. Driving a motorhome takes a lot of unflinching attention and not so much physically, but mentally, it wears the crap out of me. I get tired and a little distracted and distracted is something that is downright dangerous when driving a big heavy rig and pulling a tow vehicle with a combined length of over 50 feet. Try doing that in Atlanta and you start to grow chest hair on the inside. We finally made it to Florida and are hanging our hat in the North Central area for a few weeks before we move to Flagler Beach for an extended stay. We like this area, just south of St Augustine because it is a quiet, fun place to hang out without the crazy traffic and over population common with the state. We have some family events up north and having a base camp for a while will make the travel easier. We have pretty much finished up our travel plans for Europe at the end of April and are looking forward to returning to Spain and Portugal with additional stops in France, Belgium, Amsterdam and Copenhagen. We are so grateful to be able to live a life of travel; it is truly our passion. Combine that with our time together, a beautiful family, great friends and hopes of good heath … what more could we want. To paraphrase Willie Nelson’s lyrics, On the road again, we can’t wait to get on the road again, goin’ places that we’ve never been, seein’ things that we may never see again, and we can’t wait to get on the road again. Here we go, on the road again, like a band of nomads we go down the highway, we’re the best of friends, insisting that the world keep turnin’ our way and we can’t wait to get on the road again.
After our trip to Europe we headed to Grand Rapids, MI to be with family and friends through the Thanksgiving holiday. We are leaving the mid-west and heading south in search of warmer weather and a little R & R as we gear up for a busy winter and spring season. Janet and I are completing our first year of full-time motor coach travel, we reflect on the good and bad associated with life. This has been an amazing time for us going to places we never imagined, meeting new folks and having the joy of sharing time with family, old and new friends. This year we have been to 15 states in the US and spent a month in Europe. What do we have to say about that, “we want more”? When traveling in a motor home it is more than the destination, it is the journey. Life is life and all of the things that you deal with in a sticks and bricks lifestyle come with you on the road. Yes, you still have to do laundry, shop for provisions, do maintenance and repairs. You have good days and down days, typical health stuff and experience the joys and sorrows of family and friends near and dear. One thing that we have which we did not in our sticks and bricks lifestyle is, freedom. We go where we want, when we want. Looking back on where we have been, there were so many places that we would have never gone to or seen things that were totally off the beaten path. There is a certain excitement experiencing hidden gems, whether they be cultural, historical, architectural or culinary that are around every bend in the road. Even with going to 15 states we have only scratched the surface. There is so much to see, so much to do, so many yummy delights to eat and drink and, unfortunately, a finite timeframe to enjoy. Our goal is to experience as much as we can while the gettin is good. Knowing that there will come a time when the road is not kind to us, and we are not kind to the road. Our RV journey has been and will continue to be domestic travel for now. Not to say, we are not ruling out RVing in Europe because, that would be an awesome adventure. We love traveling abroad and will continue exploring new and old destinations. Our Europe trip this year took us to the Iberian Peninsula. We have been there several times before and just can’t seem to get enough. This coming spring, we are headed back to Spain and Portugal with additional stops in France, Belgium, the Netherlands and Copenhagen. On our last trip to Europe we saw a number of RV’s in the Netherlands. Having read the journals of some other RVers who have traveled that way abroad, we are anxious to add that to our traveling lifestyle. Travel is true freedom and we must never take this joy for granted. Coming and going as you please with nothing to stop you but your drive to do it, looking at the unknown with determination and conviction and the desire to be free and on the road again. As the second largest city in Spain, Madrid being the largest, Barcelona is a true world class giant. This was our fourth visit to this Catalonia gem on the Mediterranean coast. The city dates back to the Neolithic times and founded by the Romans at the end of the 1st century. Barcelona is unique due to the landscape diversity of beautiful Mediterranean beaches to the east, cosmopolitan city in the center and lush mountains to the west all within a short driving distance. Our first time there, a number of years ago, we stayed for a week in a large condo apartment along one of the narrow street veins at Placa de Reial which is directly off the famous La Rambla. On this visit we stayed just west of La Rambla in the L Eixample neighborhood on Carrer d ‘Aribau. We had good access to local busses and cabs when our feet were too worn out to walk. The L Eixample is the home to some of the city’s finest Modernist architecture, the neighborhood has many bars and restaurants, as well as designer and high-end shopping. Our apartment was right next door to the oldest bookstore in the city, Libreria Alemana Fabre. The quaint shop was renovated into a children’s book and toy store. The owner, a German man, accounts for books not only being in the Spanish but German as well. We found a creative little toy for our younger grandson and the E.T. book, in Spanish, for our older grandson. He is in a Spanish emersion program in school and we thought this would be a perfect read for him.
Barcelona is broken up into ten districts with each one having barrios (neighborhoods) within. One thing you can find in everyone of them is tapas. With that in mind, you would never find yourself hungry and not be able to find a place to satisfy your appetite in the city. The cost vs quality of the tapas is nominal and tasty. That means for a few Euro you can eat and have some wine and a beer without denting your wallet. Quality and presentation leave nothing to be desired. We usually stay away from tapas in the States due to high prices for so so tiny eats on your plate. Multiply that by additional high prices for libation and it makes a lot of sense to wait to have your tapas until you get to Spain and Portugal. Our diet, while staying in Barcelona, consisted mostly of tapas, wine and beer. The pastries and gelato are also splendid, but we were really good and limited our consumption to avoid physical expansion. Speaking of wine, Spain has some of the finest wine varietals being the third largest grower and producer in the world. The country, as a whole, boasts over two-million acres of vineyards. We drank wine, both red and white, from many of the regions in the country. Spain currently has 70 government approved wine regions such as Catalunya, Rias Baixas, Ribera del Duero, Priorat, Rueda, Jumilla, Bierzo, Cava and Jerez. Popular indigenous red varietals include Tempranillo (which has many local derivations), Cariñena, Garnacha, Monastrell and Mencia. Popular indigenous whites include Albariño, Verdejo, Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Paralleda (the latter three comprising the ingredients to sparkling Cava), Moscatel, Godello and Airèn. Palomino and Pedro Ximinez are the primary grapes of Sherry. Now, we could have, but, we did not sample all of these varietals! Our favorites were the Monastrell, Garnacha, Tempanillo and Albarino. Everywhere we were you could get a nice glass of Rioja for about 3 Euro. Sure beats 9 bucks plus here in the States. If a cold brewskis is your pleasure, Estrella Damm is served everywhere. It is the oldest commercial beer in Barcelona, established in the 1800’s. Like most places in Europe breakfast is not the typical eggs, bacon, potatoes and toast as served in the States. Over the top pastry, fruit and coffee are the breakfast of champions. Not to forget mentioning is the cheese. Spanish cheese-making traditions go back thousands of years and range from creamy raw cow’s milk, Arzúa, to the sharp aged blends of sheep’s milk in cured Manchego. Spanish cheese runs the gamut of texture and taste. We delighted in jumping into the gamut pallet first as we paired these wonderful cheeses with wine, crusty fresh breads, Iberian ham which is the gold standard in Spain and Portugal. Just remembering the explosions of flavor is making us hungry. When you speak of Barcelona you have to include Antoni Gaudi i Cornet, a Spanish architect known as the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernism. Gaudi’s works have a highly individualized, one-of-a-kind style. Most are located in Barcelona, including his main work, the church of the Sagrada Familia. Gaudi’s work was influenced by his passions in life: architecture, nature, and religion. He considered every detail of his creations and integrated into his architecture such crafts as ceramics, stained glass, wrought ironwork forging. You see expressions of his work throughout the city with the Sagrada Familia, a magnificent church, being one of the most visited attractions in the city. We had been there on a previous visit and did not go this time around. We did go to Casa Batlo, the Gaudi House Museum, for a tour. It was crowded and interesting. Not our favorite architectural style but visually impressive none the less. Being more into geometric sharp lines the extreme roundness and angles of the structure outside and out left us with expressions of wow. No doubt, he was a brilliant artist with a surreal style leaving us with somewhere between a LSD trip and an over exposure to tequila experience. Hey, that’s why in art there is a style for every personal taste, bravo Gaudi. The architecture that melted our butter and does wherever we travel is ”old world” style and Barcelona has plenty of it. Catalan Gothic and Modernist architecture captured us like cheese in a mouse trap. The detail and geometric angles are what does it. Combining that with the extremely narrow streets in the Old City in Barcelona, The Ciutat Vella, is enchanting. Wandering the streets brings you back to centuries gone by. Listen carefully and breath deeply along the way and magically you are there with the artisans and populous of by gone times. Occasionally running our hands across the exterior of a building and the cobblestone beneath our feet inject old world energy into the experience. If you pine to see the Mediterranean Sea, take a ten-minute city bus ride to the playa (beach). The beaches in Barcelona are white sand and wide with the brilliantly colored Sea beckoning swimmers, waders, surfers and onlookers to take it all in. The beach area was people watching heaven. People get around on foot or on very popular electric two wheeled scooters. If a more relaxing ride is your fancy, you could flag down a bicycle driven rickshaw. These men and women will peddle you all over the place. Imagine, you’re totally relaxed, a canvas canopy over your head, the wind blowing through your hair, or lack thereof, a drink in hand as your imagination slowly drifts. Lulled into peaceful submission by your calming senses, thoughts of where life’s mysterious adventures will transport you next materialize in smile inducing vignettes. Our visit to Cartagena, a port town on the SE Mediterranean coast of Spain, was a rainy but still enjoyable experience. We have friends who moved there from England a number of years ago and were unfortunately, for us, on vacation away from the area when we arrived. They graciously gave us an itinerary to follow as we navigated the city. Cartagena was founded in the 3rd century BCE on the site of an ancient Iberian settlement by the Carthaginian general Hasdrubal. We entered this ancient city through the port and started our exploration, on foot, at the city center. We were taken by the colorful architecture and pristine, marble streets and sidewalks. The rain cast an impressive sheen and spectacular reflections as we started our walk. There were many shops and cafes lining the pedestrian only street. What better way to warm the soul and gather our bearings than a cup of coffee? Now, we’re not talking any old cup of Joe, we had a hot Java called Asiatico. It is made from condensed milk, coffee, cognac, Licor 43, lemon rind and cinnamon. When we say this drink is nothing short of outrageously good, that is an understatement. They serve it in an espresso style glass designed to prevent thermal collapse. Trust us, this drink does not collapse in any shape or form. Bravo, bravo, bravo! We sat at a small café and sipped away.
Of course, because it was rainy, we did not have an umbrella so, we bought one. Actually, we bought two at a great price, just a few Euro. Now we were dry and happy. Continuing our stroll, we found a church where the morning service was just ending. We checked out the beautiful artwork and architecture and just chilled for a while in the quiet sanctuary. After a while we were off again. The marble streets just did not quit as we continued on. Even the side streets were decked with marble. Like many cities in Spain, Cartagena is no different, cleanliness is taken to the extreme. Not that we would, but as the expression goes, you could eat off the street. Extending the three second rule with respect to dropped food probably could be extended to seven. When you travel in Spain and Portugal you quickly become aware of the price difference in the price of goods, services, food and drink. You get a better bang for your Euro in Spain. There is a significantly better value in Spain. Not that Portugal is expensive but in Spain you can keep more change in your pocket. Tapas are everywhere with a huge selection of delicious delicacies in most cafes and restaurants. We actually walked back to the café where we had the Asiatico and had our Tapas and brewskis. Still raining, we took advantage of the lazy afternoon and basically chilled, did some people watching and took in a few more sites. We are planning to return soon and hopefully our friends will not be away. In addition to getting together we are sure that having residents present the scope of the city would be a real treat for us. Having sailed for many years we are always drawn to sailing yachts in marinas. Cartagena did not disappoint. The harbor was filled with craft of all sizes and styles. We always compare what we sailed to what we see and pay attention to the rigging, canvas and the like. Never fails to bring back memories of the amazing fun and sometimes craziness we had on our sloop, with our boys. Oh well, life is certainly a journey and adventure. Just when you think you’ve seen and experienced it all, there’s always something else. This was our second visit to Lisbon on the Atlantic coast of Portugal. Other than the ancient history, beautiful architecture, culture, food and welcoming people, it is hard to not realize just how steep the terrain is. A fast rise from the port into the city and up, up and away you go. The first time we were in Lisbon we visited the Alfama district and being gluttons for the punishing climb, we found ourselves there once again. This district, dating back to the 11th century winds its way through narrow residential streets with old world architecture. The neighborhood, beginning right off the port area, was designed as a maze to trap would be pirates who came to loot and pillage from the sea. No doubt, it is really easy to get lost in the labyrinth of slippery, cobblestone streets and because of just how treacherous the climb can be, it makes you completely worn out physically and an easy prey for capture by the locals.
We ventured to Feira da Ladra, an outdoor flea market, which is held within the Alfama district of Lisbon twice a week. The name, Feira da Ladra market translates in English to, Market of the Female Thieves. It is a gigantic collection of items ranging from vintage clothing to local art and sundries. We estimate that all items lumped together it is 80% junk as is typical in many flea markets. Haggling the price down is part of the process. After spending at least, two hours wandering the streets filled with stands, we bought a case for sunglasses. Wow, big spenders. Crowded is an understatement and in addition to people milling about, the vehicular traffic was an added bonus to pedestrian safety. Add on top of that, the friggin streets are so steep that you constantly feel like you are on an angle. The weather was warm and extremely windy, so merchandise was constantly flying around adding to the organized chaos with vendors chasing their merchandise as it blew around. What fun until it was not fun anymore. So, having enough we decided it was time for some lunch and quiet time. We ventured down towards the port area where it was much flatter. A nice little outdoor café was just what we needed. A cold glass of brewskis and some local nibbles hit the spot. Of course, we had to have a traditional Pasteis de Nata as a sweet end to the mid-day meal. Just as it was up in the Alfama the wind was blowing with ferocity. We were eating outside under a tent and were surprised it did not completely blow away. Over the years we have noticed how Europeans seem to value quiet time and really know how to slow down and smell the coffee. In the States folks are always so rushed and living outside of themselves. It’s taken years but we are starting to realize how comforting it is to take the time to take it all in. After a leisurely lunch break, we decided to get on a Tuk Tuk, a three wheeled electric motorized cabin cycle. They look like a fancy rickshaw. There were four of us along with the driver in this contraption. I sat, facing backwards, in the rear seat, camera in hand as we flew, and I mean flew, through the city streets. I felt like a foreign country news correspondent. Our driver was a great guide, narrating as we sped through one neighborhood after another. We really got a good feel of how large and diverse the architecture and culture in Lisbon is. We worked our way to the very top of the city. There were about a hundred Tuk Tuks parked with even more tourists congregating at the lookout point. After spending some time taking photos and looking out over the city and Atlantic Ocean we got back in the vehicle and headed down through narrow streets filled with pedestrian and motorized traffic. Again, an exercise in controlled chaos. An observation we have made after the many countries we have visited abroad, over the years, is that we are really blessed in the US to have such a diversity of culture. When you travel in Europe the culture of the country you are in is predominant with small offshoots of subcultures within. By contrast, the US is a true melting pot of the world. People from all parts of the globe living side by side, sharing history, culture, food and traditions with one another. A stimulating and educational way to live, all sharing differences with each other. Yes, that may sound utopian but other than the fact that it may not be working as designed, it is a beautiful concept. Let’s hope we can, one day, learn to appreciate the potential in living together in peace and harmony. Located along the Douro River estuary in northern Portugal, Porto is one of the oldest European cities. The history of Porto dates back to around 300 BC. Our visit started on the Douro River as we navigated the steep streets that are literally across the street from the river. The extreme age of the landscape and architecture was what grabbed our visual senses. This city is old, no doubt. Like most cities we have visited on the Iberian Peninsula, Porto is no different being extremely clean. Graffiti artists have left their mark with some of the hillside walls and alleys decorated with street art. Some of it is exceptionally creative and other creations a bit uncreative.
We navigated our first set of ridiculous medieval stairs toward a church we could see from the river. After about an hour of what seemed like endless climbing, we reached the top. Turning around we got an amazing view of the Douro River and a real feel for the age and tightness of the city’s architecture. The church actually turned out to be a courthouse. Having three potential directions to go, from our location, we asked one of the courthouse guards which route would give us the best bang for our buck. He suggested we venture off to the right and down the very steep cobblestone street back towards the river. So off we went following the cobble-brick road through a very old residential neighborhood. Apartments with exterior displays of potted plants and clothes hanging out to air and dry dotted the cityscape with unique patterns and colors. People of varying ages leaning out on windowsills and sitting on fire escapes and balconies enjoying the conversation below and the slow-paced morning as it approached mid-day. It took us a while to get down along the riverfront due to the treachery of the steep streets but, without incident, we made it. At the bottom we came upon numerous eateries and cafes. We were looking for custard tarts called pasteis de nata. These are without a doubt the most famous and breathtakingly delicious pastries we have had. The best way to eat them is fresh and hot and for about 1 Euro you can’t go wrong. These custard pastries were created before the 18th century by Catholic monks at Saint Mary of Bethlehem in Lisbon. They used large quantities of egg whites to starch their clothes and had an equal amount of egg yolks to dispose of. Rather than throw the precious commodity out, they developed this culinary treasure. Long story short, we had some pasteis de nata in Porto and again on our visit to Lisbon. Holyyyyyyy…smokes, nuff said. Lunch in Porto is a journey in itself. With so many choices of places to eat and so little room in our stomachs you have to roll the dice and go with your instinct. Instinct is what guided us, along with the menu. We found a little indoor-outdoor café a block in from the riverfront. They had what we were looking for, so we took a chance. Our choice was, Francesinha, a sandwich made with bread, cured Iberian ham, linguica, chipolata which is a sausage and covered with melted cheese. It is placed in a bowl with thick, hot tomato and beer sauce. Also, on our list was Chorizo al Infierno, flaming Chorizo, served with crusty Portuguese bread. What to drink with that tummy yummy food? Port of course. A glass or two complimented another Holyyyyyyyy…smokes experience. After lunch we took a leisurely walk along the Douro River people watching and architecture ogling. A few street musicians complemented the sounds of the city and with the sun out warming the temperature the experience was all that more enjoyable. We really enjoyed being in Porto. Not having been there before it proved to be a city we would most certainly like to come back to. The welcoming people, architecture, culture, food and oh yes, Port wine rounded our exploration of this medieval city on the north coast of Portugal. Located on the NW corner of Spain on the Atlantic Ocean is La Coruña a municipality of Galicia. We visited this city while traveling down the coast of Spain toward Porto, Portugal. The medieval town served as political capital of the Kingdom of Galicia from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Upon entering the harbor, we fixed our eyes on the Wall of Glass, perhaps one of the prettiest spots in La Coruña. The curved buildings that hug the harbor with their walls of glass windows reflecting the sunshine is truly spectacular. There are many cafes, ice cream shops, restaurants and bars that line the avenue. It was a short walk through narrow, winding streets like we have seen in many countries and cities we have visited in Europe. Our first stop on the self, guided walking tour we did was, Plaza de María Pita. As we walked through the narrow streets, we suddenly came across this immense square, named after Maria Pita, who was a woman who led the revolt by the town when Sir Francis Drake landed there in the 1500’s. Immense is an understatement. The plaza is grand in the grand sense of the word. Striking architecture with the huge city municipal building as the centerpiece created a breathtaking scene. There is a giant statue of Maria Pita in the center of the square and sizeable selection of shops, restaurants and cafes lining the plaza. We watched a wedding party as they used the beauty of the plaza for their photographs.
Just across from the plaza and up the steep street was the Iglesia de San Jorge, a Catholic church built in the 1500’s. We went inside during a service and sat quietly until it ended. After the service the priest walked around and started a conversation wanting to know where we were from and if we had a religious affiliation. We chatted for a while giving us a chance to use our less than perfect command of the Spanish language. He told us that he had been the priest at the church for a number of years and we talked a little about the amazing art that adorned the church along with the old pipe organ which unfortunately was not being played while we were there. Like kids who eat strange vegetables we are classical organ music lovers. Yes, we are weird and relish every minute of it. Continuing to walk through the maze of streets we came upon the Plaza del Humor. It is a small square near the Municipal Market and the Plaza de María Pita that brought a smile to our faces with its cartoons of famous laughter-makers from Cervantes to the Pink Panther, along with sculptures and concrete benches for photographs with masonry figures to sit next to. That plaza as well had a number of cafes and shops along the outer areas. We rested our feet there for a while before venturing forward. It was getting close to lunch time which is when locals and tourists alike fill the local cafes for tapas, wine and beer. We found a little place where we had some delicious tapas, bread and a few glasses of local Rioja wine. It is not unusual to sit and relax for an hour or so reflecting on what we had seen and where we were headed. Finally, after some good food and wine we headed out for more sightseeing. Seems like Spain and Portugal are stops for the European tour of the rock group Queen, whose lead singer now is Adam Lambert. We saw posters with tour dates and locations on billboards in the city. Unfortunately, none of the concert dates worked for us. It would have been really cool to see that show while abroad. While touring the city we encountered a number of excellent street musicians. American music, especially jazz, is very popular throughout Europe. Like visual art, music is everywhere with artists of every medium chasing the same Euros to make a living. Not much different than here in the states. Late afternoons were usually spent, by us, at a coffee bar – bakery. There was never a shortage of great coffee and pastries that tickled the eyes and stomach. Great way to wind down the day relaxing and reminiscing about the sites encountered in yet another wonderful European city. Located in the north of Spain, Bilbao is a port city most famous for the Frank Gehry design Guggenheim Museum. The cosmopolitan Basque city is a safe haven for young families and seniors alike. Unique architecture is everywhere with the highlight being the emblematic Guggenheim. We took a bus into the city center and started our walk toward the waterfront where the museum is located. It is one of the world’s finest modern art museums. Having limited time, we admired the striking, structural design and giant bear decorated in flowers in the main plaza. Needless to say, it was not as walkable a city as we had imagined. Even though the city center streets are laid out in a grid our dilemma was being ill prepared for our visit there. Normally our routine before we visit a city is the watch endless YouTubes and read guild journals so by the time, we arrive it is like we have been there before. Bilbao was a prime example of the pitfalls of winging it. We like to call it being out of focus. Not to say, although we did enjoy the beauty of the city our experience there was rather aimlessly moving around without a plan. Like most European cities there are lots of interesting stores, bakeries and eating establishments on almost every block. Everywhere we went, we walked a little and snack on local delights as a personal reward. As we do regularly on our travels, we walk a lot and it is impossible not to refuel with a little local food and drink.
Spain is all about Tapas and in most cities finding good taste treats and wine is easier than breathing. We located a small café on a side street and after looking the menu over decided that we could not go wrong. We sat down and ordered a few small dishes with a few glasses of local Rioja wine. As tradition dictates, you eat a little, drink a little, talk a little and the combination helps you to relax a lot. Iberian ham in Spain is like Prosciutto in Italy. Truly the Wagu of ham, this cured meat is sliced paper thin and literally melts in your mouth. Combine that with some local cheese and homemade bread and saying you are in for a treat is an understatement. A plate of mixed olives in olive oil and some assorted fish Tapas and you’re set. Add a few glasses or a bottle of local wine and you could not ask for more. European living at its best. Let’s face it, if we are fortunate, we will live to a ripe old age. The biggest part of the puzzle is quality of life. Fact of the matter is, with aging comes fear. Seniors worry about being less mobile, lonely, and having debilitating memory loss. Bilbao is taking these issues seriously and offers its senior population city wide programs for maintaining cognitive abilities in two public parks. Outdoor games help with attention span thereby improving mental fitness. The parks also provide stationary bikes to improve physical performance as well. Tie those things together and it also promotes connection with the end result of people being less lonely. A sobering thought by the World Health Organization estimates by the year 2050 there will be over 2 billion people over the age of 60. Holy moly, just thinking about that it might be time for more Tapas and wine. As the largest city in the Netherlands, Amsterdam beckoned our return for the second time. We especially enjoy the culturally diverse and welcoming attitude of the locals. Amsterdam has something for every taste including architecture, culture, music, art, food and history. It is easy to get lost in one or all of those attributes. On this trip we focused on the architecture, canals and the fantastic street food at the Albert Cuyp Market which started in 1904. There are about 300 stalls in the open-air street market with delectable foods, clothing and wares. It is a destination for both locals and tourists alike. Amsterdam has an excellent rail system and getting around is a breeze. We took a trolley from the Central Station to the Cuyp Market where we spent most of the afternoon walking and food sampling. The prices are fare and the quality of the foods helps to make the experience a memorable one. We had Kibbeling, a lightly battered and fried cod fish along with Mussels, prepared the same way and served with dipping sauces. No trip to Albert Cuyp would be complete without visiting Vlaams Friteshuis. This is the place for thick cut French fries served in a cone with peanut satay and herb mayonnaise. The real deal is an understatement. A medium portion that easily served two was 2.90 Euro. Can’t beat that. Stroopwafel, a wafer cookie make with two layers of a baked dough and a caramel vanilla bourbon filling between was mouthwatering. These baked treats are made to order and served hot. Finally, we had Poffertjes, traditional buckwheat pancakes served hot with powdered sugar and plated over creamy butter. Oh my, these were so good, real comfort food. Wares and clothing along with cheeses and other foods of excellent quality are sold at reasonable prices.
Amsterdam has been called the Venice of the North with 165 canals, regularly navigated by locals and tourists on canal boats designed to make their way under the very low bridges and tight turns along the waterways. We hopped on one of these boats from the water terminal across from the Central Station. The hour and a half tour took us through many of the neighborhoods that dot the city. This tour, unlike our past visit, was narrated by a recorded guide. Personally, we did not enjoy it as much as the live guided canal tour we did a few years ago. Being familiar with a number of areas of the city we cruised by, it was nice taking in the scenery along with watching the people on the seawalls enjoying the beautiful weather. Being an inland waterway tour the water is very calm and the glass sides and tops on the boats offered an unobstructed view as we floated along. One of the most visually exciting neighborhoods in the city is the Jardon. This is where the Frank family hid from the Nazis during WWII and where the Diary of Anne Frank was written. We spent some time outside the Anne Frank House, the brownstone home where the family hid and the attached museum. If you want to visit the museum it is necessary to get a ticket many months in advance as the lines and wait times, without tickets, are very long. The Westerkerk, next to the museum is the famous church Anne Frank wrote about in her diary. She would sit by the window in her room and listen to the bells chiming. It was a song of hope for her during the two long years they lived in tiny quarters hidden at the top of the building. It is hard not to feel the emotion and lingering energy there. Thousands of people standing around looking and photographing, hopefully remembering a very dark time in world history. We walked the many tiny streets in the Jardon admiring the beautiful architecture and local folk in their day to day activities. We came across one of the Amsterdam Café’s, not a typical coffee house. The famous café’s in the city house legal establishments where you can buy and smoke marijuana. The shop we went into was filled with locals and probably tourists who were sitting at tables drinking coffee and tea, chatting with their friends, busy on their laptops and rolling and smoking weed. Not as big a deal as it sounds. A relaxed, quiet environment. We found a nice little neighborhood restaurant where a delicious meal with some wine was enjoyed. Afterwards we took the trolley back to the Central Station, where our car was parked, and drove back to our home base in the town of Holten. During our stay we visited Amsterdam a few times from Holten by train and our rental car. The highway system in the Netherlands is fantastic and staying outside the city, a rental car was definitely the way to go. The drive to and from Holten was about an hour and gave us plenty of time to rest our worn-out feet. Blogging while on an extended trip, with limited internet access has its challenges. We flew out of Philadelphia with our cousins from Delaware, where we left our motor home and tow vehicle. Twenty-two hours later, after a stopover in Dublin, we arrived in Amsterdam, Netherlands. Not our official first destination but we were getting close. A two-hour train ride east brought us to the rural Dutch countryside town of Holten, where we would call the next week home base. We got off the train, luggage in hand with hopes of hailing a cab to our rented cottage. Well, you can't hail a cab when there are none to hail. Fortunately, there was a cafe/beer garden outside the train station where they helped us get some transportation. Due to travel exhaustion we almost forgot where we were. Realizing, with some memory recall, things abroad move a lot slower than in the US. To make a long story even longer, we waited an hour for a bus that finally got us to our lodging. Are you tired yet? Tired, at that point was an understatement. When we finally checked in, collapsing was the only thought we had left and to sleep we went for the next ten hours. Not as bad as it sounds as when we travel to Europe, we always catch some needed winks when we arrive.
Holton, as we had said, is quaint and rural with an impressive central area full of shops, markets and eateries. It would be safe to say we were most likely the only Americans there. Being so off the beaten track, encountering English speaking people was extremely rare. We did manage to navigate all aspects of our stay without too much difficulty. A memorable highlight was being in the local market and oogling over the fantastic bargain prices of wine, two women overheard us, and they started what turned out to be a 45-minute conversation. We learned they were originally from Iran and through England, had located in Holten. Turns out the daughter lives in Great Britain and was visiting her parents. The Iranian woman was married to a Dutchman who grew up in the area. They graciously invited us to their home the next day for some drinks, snacks and conversation. Their home was beautiful and had large perfectly manicured English gardens. We had a delightful time and made some new friendships as we have done in other parts of the globe. It is comforting to realize that people, no matter where they are from, regardless of backgrounds, have the same aspirations and desires. As Louis Armstrong sang, "what a wonderful world". Stay tuned for part 2 of Europe Adventure as we train ride into Amsterdam before waking up to the fact that a car rental would be a cheaper and faster venture. We plan on doing a full photo blog post after we sort through the 1000+, and growing, portfolio we have amassed. Finishing our first seven months on the road, we feel a qualified confidence as the newbie mystique of what do we do and how do we do it has faded into the past. Now, that is not to say we don’t have more to learn about this lifestyle having only tipped the iceberg but, like most very adaptable humans we are moving along comfortably. During our brief journey we have brought our rolling home to fourteen states, barely scratching the surface of the many cities and towns within them. We have visited with family and friends who, if not on our journeys path, we might not have had a chance to spend quality time with. A true blessing of exploring life has been unfolding before us.
A feather in our cap as our travels so far, have been fairly slow paced. When we started this journey, we both decided we were not going to rush ourselves along the way and made sure we had enough time in each location to, at least, get a good feel of the areas. Driving limits have been no more than 300 miles at a time or about 3.5 hours on the road at a time. Driving a motor home with a tow vehicle requires a great deal of mental attention and it quite literally wears one out. We hear about folks traveling great distances and long hours for pleasure and wondering how they get to really see and enjoy anything. The old saying, it’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey holds true, at least in our case. Over the past seven months we have experienced lots of different scenery, culture, architecture, history, music, food, wine, beer and spirits. More meaningful positive stimulation than we could have imagined. Domestic travels really send home the reality that we live in an exciting multi-cultural country. It is the people that make a country great and we are the only nation on this globe that thrives on multi-culturalism. A phrase heard many times is, it must be nice being on a constant vacation could not be farther from the truth. We, in fact, are living our lives pretty much the same as we did in our sticks n bricks with the only difference being, we change our neighborhoods. With changing locations along the way, we get to see and experience a lot of cool stuff and have the opportunity to meet and spend time with a lot of interesting people while enjoying the freedom of living life on our own terms. On a day to day basis we still have to shop for food and other necessary things along with paying bills, doing laundry, seeing doctors, making repairs etc., etc., etc. We are leaving for a month-long European vacation this week and will do all of the vacation stuff associated with our trip. In a broad sense we are like the pioneers of centuries past, traveling around this country and the world, as so many other folks do. In our case, not looking for new opportunities but rather to follow the weather and broaden our experiences. Call us gypsy’s, vagabonds, nomads, wanderers, perpetual travelers or crazy lunes but, fact of the matter is, we are just doing what we like while we are able. Freedom gives us all the opportunity to explore the type of lifestyle that brings us joy and is personally fulfilling. Our short-term goal is to continue to realize good health and forge forward with our chosen lifestyle as long as we are enjoying it and are able to. Traveling around this country it is hard not to realize how vast America is and although we have and will visit a lot of states, it would take more than a lifetime to see everything this land has to offer. “All we are is dust in the wind” holds so much truth. Nomadic travel is like being blown from place to place, settling in a spot only to be picked up and carried to another. Is the RV lifestyle for everyone, of course not, but in your lifetime, you would be remiss not finding your own way and pursuing the things that give you joy and bring life to your life? May the wind be behind you and carry you safely on your chosen journeys. What, you might ask, is Borscht? A soup with its origin in the Ukraine and a staple in Eastern Europe and Northern Asia. This comfort food is made from beets which are pureed and blended, usually with sour cream and served over a hot, peeled potato with an additional dollop of sour cream on top. The taste is earthy and the comfort level associated is high. So, what is the mix with a belt? Well, the New York Catskill region in Sullivan and Ulster Counties was called the Borscht Belt from the 1920’s till the 1970’s. An area about 90 miles from NYC where mostly Jews escaped the city and migrated, in droves, for a vacation in bungalow colonies and hotels scattered, in mass, throughout the region. In the hotels they got all of the amenities associated with grand resorts including lots and we mean lots of food, social and sports activities and headline entertainment. In the bungalow colonies the guest mostly did their own cooking and created their own activities. Ok, ok, the answer to the question, why the name Borscht Belt? The soup, Borscht, is often associated with Eastern European Jews and considering the Catskills was the Jewish Alps the name Borscht Belt was totally appropriate. Other than food the big draw to the hotels was the entertainment. Just about every entertainer you could name from that era either got their start or performed at a Catskill hotel.
During the early 70’s we worked at a number of the resorts while in high school and college during the summer. The experience for a staff member was quite different than a guest. We won’t go into detail but if you want a good idea of the climate watch movies like Duddy Kravitz with Richard Dryfuss, Dirty Dancing with Patrick Swayze and of course season two of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. The story lines are about as accurate as you can get. We worked hard, well not that hard, ate well and had lots of fun. Living conditions for the staff were a far cry from guest accommodations but being young and adventurous, we survived. On our exploration of the area we got a hold of an old Borscht Belt hotel and bungalow colony map. Our efforts were not as expected trying to seek out the long gone establishments which have been either been vandalized beyond recognition, demolished or taken over by other types of businesses. A sad state of affairs by any stretch of the imagination. Many of the bungalow colonies have been taken over by Hasidic Jews who come to the area from NYC and surrounding areas for retreats. Driving by many of them they look like the old villages their families lived in in Eastern Europe. The hamlet of Woodbourne in Fallsburg is an example of a Catskill area that has a major influx of Orthodox and Hasidic Jews during the spring, summer and fall. The businesses cater to their lifestyle and include a number of kosher eating establishments and groceries. So, what happened to the Catskills? To make a long story, with multiple events, short and to the point. During the late 60’s and early 70’s travel to Europe and the Caribbean became very accessible, family incomes increased and the desire to travel longer distances for greater adventure was taking hold. Southeast Florida also was becoming a place where retirees and families were traveling to and establishing residence. IBM Corp had a massive presence in Kingston, NY employing thousands of people and decided to pull their facilities out. The hotels were closing in mass and what was left was a hard place for residents to make a living and a huge downturn in the vacation population. The nails in the coffin were being pounded in with vengeance. Remembering when we were kids, going to the Catskill hotels with our families along with our personal experience of working at a number of them, packing for a 3, 4 or more-day vacation was a surreal experience. The typical day was broken up into distinct segments based around three massive meals. Preparation went something like this. You packed clothes for everything, and no outfit could be worn twice because even in a massive hotel like Grossinger’s, if you wore something twice everyone would notice, and you would run the risk of being the topic of conversation for 3000 people. This is not an option. You needed an outfit for breakfast, and after you finished stuffing your face you went back to your room and changed for the morning activities. Afterwards you went back to your room and changed for lunch. Again, you ate copious amounts of food and would take a leisurely stroll or ride back to you room and change for afternoon activities all the while wondering what you were going to order for dinner. About 4 o’clock you might go back to your room and take a little nap. About 5 o’clock you started to get ready for dinner. Suits for the men and evening gowns for the women as no business casual or less was allowed in the dining room for dinner. After finishing a dump truck portion of dinner and dessert you quickly headed back to the room and changed into a more leisurely outfit for the evening show followed by a late-night snack and then off to bed. Now, that was one day worth of clothes and as said before you could not wear anything twice. Multiply that by 3, 4 or more days and you practically needed a U-Haul to get the tremendous amount of luggage up to the Catskills. The last day you usually left to go home after breakfast and the outfit could not be the one you wore up to the hotel. Most likely your clothes size had increased as well. Most folks left being helped by a forklift for their luggage and their increased girth after eating a city worth of food. All right, maybe the forklift stuff is an exaggeration, but the amount of clothing packed, and food consumed is not. As a society we most certainly have changed, at least a little. When we left the Catskills our thoughts for this scenic area of lower Up-State NY are hopes they can recover and once again be a thriving destination in the mountains. Woodstock, in August 1969 was about so much more than the music. The Aquarian Exposition was 3 days of peace and music along with lots of rain. The baby boomer generation was coming of age and were starting to reject the social norms established by preceding generations. The nuclear family no longer fit into the advancing culture and technology of the 60’s along with a growing interest in social activism and the realization that the war being fought in SE Asia was being run by the political leadership during that time. Thousands of young men and women were sacrificing their lives for a cause many of them did not understand. The world was in turmoil. Music, art, culture, free love and recreational drug experimentation were taking a strong hold on the youth. Institutions of higher learning were promoting a do your own thing culture and the gathering at Woodstock, of 400,000 on the field and probably another 100,000 on the highways and outlying areas was about to make history.
We were not at the original festival back in 1969 but driving into the area it was strange how we both remarked about the feeling of lingering energy still in the air. Best described as an emotional swelling along with an overwhelming feeling of joy. The area is as pristine as it was 50 years ago with little commercial growth. As we approached the festival fairgrounds and museum, we passed White Lake and images of masses of people bathing in the water and camping along the banks sent images through our heads like flipping through a portfolio from the past. Driving into the festival grounds we imagined how blocked the roads were with cars and people flooding in. The very well-maintained property houses a terrific museum, arts and learning center along with a state-of-the-art concert venue and of course, the 600 acre bowl shaped field which was once land carpeted with alfalfa for Max Yasgur’s dairy cattle. When we entered the architecturally pleasing museum a docent was assigned to us and he led the small group through. The well-planned exhibits along with his vast knowledge of the times and event were totally engaging and brought a new sense of clarity. After the almost 2 hour guided tour was over, we were encouraged to go back through the museum and look at the exhibits in more detail as well as watch the individual movies presented. We ate a leisurely lunch on the outdoor patio and then proceeded to the monument. The best words to describe the field are, completely overwhelming. We looked out over the area from various vantage points, even getting to the area where the stage was on imagining what the musical artists saw, a sea of humanity. The barn across the narrow road where the acts grouped before going on stage is still there next to a flat area on a small hill where the helicopters landed as they brought the musical groups in. This preservation of history is a truly magical place and as said before, the energy is still lingering in the air. Next to the monument, the message tree is still standing. We were told that an arborist was consulted to strategically take cuttings and replant due to the original tree being in the later stages of its life. The area is extremely quiet with guests showing a reverence for these hallowed grounds. The sound of the wind and the deepest parts of imagination create images of being on that field in 1969. These are a few of the interesting facts we learned on our visit: The event produced and financed by Artie Kornfeld, Michael Lang, John Roberts and Joel Rosenman took a tremendous financial loss. 80 lawsuits were filed against Woodstock Ventures and they eventually paid off the 1.4-million-dollar debt incurred Before the gates even opened 80,000 people were already on the field and the small chain link fences were not enough to stop the masses of people coming in. It was declared a free concert. There were no reported acts of violence during the entire event which is a tribute to the love and respect people had for each other. Bill Graham of the Fillmore East and West managed many of the performing acts. His house band, a little-known group called Santana, was put into the music lineup as part of an agreement between Graham and the promoters to give them exposure. The rest is history. Santana will be one the featured groups at the 50th anniversary show at Woodstock. Carlos Santana said that the Woodstock grounds is the most sacred concert venue in the world and is proud and honored to be performing there once again. Joni Mitchell, who was dating Graham Nash of Crosby, Stills and Nash at the time was not able to attend the show as a performer because she was in appearing on the Dick Cavett Show that weekend. We were told that she was in constant phone communication with Graham Nash during the festival. Mitchell wrote the iconic song Woodstock and if you read the verses and delve into the metaphor of the lyrics you can truly get a feel of the climate of the 60’s. I came upon a child of God He was walking along the road When I asked him where are you going This he told me. I'm going down to Yasgur’s farm Think Ill join a rock and roll band I'll camp out on the land I'll try and set my soul free. We are stardust, we are golden And we've got to get ourselves back to the garden. Then can I walk beside you I have come here to lose the smog And I feel just like a cog in something turning. Well maybe its the time of year Or maybe its the time of man And I don't know who I am But life’s for learning. We are stardust, we are golden And we've got to get ourselves back to the garden. By the time I got to Woodstock They were half a million strong Everywhere there were songs and celebration And I dreamed I saw the bombers Riding shotgun in the sky Turning into butterflies Above our nation. We are stardust, we are golden And we've got to get ourselves back to the garden. We are stardust, we are golden And we've got to get ourselves back to the garden. We are stardust, we are golden And we've got to get ourselves back to the garden. The name Cape Cod easily rolls off the tongue and is a fitting name for this destination-oriented land mass off the coast of Massachusetts. First discovered by Norse Voyages in and around 985 - 1025 AD and inhabited by Native Americans. It is said that Leif Eriksson landed there in 1007 AD when the keel of his ship needed repair. In 1524 Giovanni da Verrazano landed their and named Martha’s Vineyard Claudia who was the wife of Claude of France. Finally, in 1602 Bartholomew Gosnold named the tip Cape Cod due to the abundance of Cod fish in the surrounding waters and renamed Claudia, Martha’s Vineyard, after his deceased daughter.
So now that you have a bit of history it is time for our take. First the name, Cape Cod has such an overwhelming array of fish and shellfish available it could have easily been named Cape Fish. Yes, you are saying that is a lousy name and just let Cape Cod stand. Done deal, no name change. Unless you are not a fish eater there is no way you can go to the Cape and not indulge or at least have a cup of chowda and a lobsta roll. There are roadside seafood stands and restaurants all over the place, each one claiming “best seafood on the Cape”. Ya gotta wonder if there is a little self-voting going on, but who really cares. If it’s good, it’s good. The drive in was pretty easy with not too much traffic and the RV park we stayed at was in a great location in South Dennis which is considered Mid-Cape just inland from Yarmouth. Our son, daughter-in-law and their new puppy Moose joined us for our stay. It was fun hanging and exploring together. Quality family time is always a blessing. Moose had a great time doing his puppy stuff and with the super good weather enjoyed a lot of outdoor play time. Last year we got a lifetime National Park Pass and handily used it on the Cape when we went to the National Seashore. We found a dog friendly area and had a nice day on the beach. Janet and I, being former sailors and on-going cruisers, love being on the water but are not fond of hanging on the beach. We did have a very relaxing day enjoying the cool breeze and bright sun. We did not venture into the water as it was a brisk 62*f. Moose got his paws wet and decided it was a bit too cold for him as well. The Cape is a breeding and feeding ground for Great White sharks due to the large grey seal population. No, Great Whites do not like hanging with the seals, they love eating them. A hefty food supply is just what brings them in just like the delectable array of fish brings in the tourists. There were a number of close to shore sightings while we were on the Cape and many of the beaches closed for an hour or so until the Great White threat cleared. The closest one we heard about was 40 yards off the beach we were on the day before. The thought did cross our minds that we preferred to eat lunch rather than be lunch. Janet and I had been to the Cape many years ago and our expectations were seeing lots of small fishing villages with grey shake siding buildings and the sound of gulls filling the air. Either we were never in the right places or that image does not exist or is long gone. Needless to say, we were a little disappointed. Now, we are not saying our expectations were shattered, just that the expected charm was not there. Hey, different strokes for different folks. We most certainly would love to come back to Cape Fish, oops, we mean Cape Cod again. Next time for a much longer stay to give us a chance for more in depth exploring. So, after a month in Massachusetts our stay here, thanks to our dear friend Terry’s brother for providing a lake front view for our rolling home, is drawing to a close. We will hold lots of fond memories of the places visited in this great state and most of all our kids, family and friends who we got to spend time with. Our adventure continues, next stop, the Catskills and the site of the Woodstock Festival in 1969 for a few weeks. Janet and I are so excited because we both worked in a Borscht Belt hotel in the area back then and had some great times. It will give us a chance to re-live some of those memories and we will, “Finally get to Woodstock”. Far out, peace and love. Over the weekend we went to Salem, Ma with our son and daughter in law, their new puppy Moose and our cousins Ellen and Bruce. Hot was a friggin understatement. How hot was it? It was so hot, any hotter and it would have been beyond hot. We experienced a heat index of over 108*f. The temp was so oppressive that we all felt completely drained and, at times, on the verge of feeling sick. How much of Salem did we get to experience you might ask? Well, not much. We spent the afternoon in air- conditioned shops and at one point sat outside, yes, we are insane, having cold non-alcohol drinks for fear of further dehydration. We did have hot clam chowda although. You cannot be in New England and get your fill of chowda. Actually, it is a proven, cannot qualify the proof, that if you eat hot soup when it is on the verge of hell hot outside it cools you off. We can attest to the fact that it just made us feel hotter but put nice smiles of contentment on our faces because it tasted so damn good.
Janet and I did get a chance to take our friend Terry’s pontoon boat out on the lake one day last week, when the temps, sky and air were just perfect. What a relaxing day we had just drifting along with the breeze blowing through her hair, I don’t have any, so it was not having the same effect on me. Sometimes it is just nice to not do much of anything and our month stay in the Boston area has been a good mix of doing and seeing stuff and just chilling. You have to do that at times to recharge, unwind and plan for the next step of the journey. Oh yea, forgot the maintenance we had done on our rig. New hydraulic line and generator repair. One of the inevitable parts of RV’s is that just like sticks and bricks homes, shit breaks. Depending on what the culprit is, you are at the mercy of time as parts need to be ordered and installed. We keep hearing that you just have to smile and put it in perspective as part of the journey. As our stay here winds down we are looking forward to spending a few weeks in the Catskills near New Paltz. That is our old stomping ground having worked in a hotel in Ellenville, NY one summer when we were in college. The hotel, like many in the Catskills is long gone as the demise of the “Borscht Belt” closed most of the well-known resorts our families frequented during the 50’s and 60’s and 70’s. We are hoping to see some familiar sights while we are there. At least enough to spark fond memories of out blast from the past. All and all it has been a wonderful time for us being with family and friends. Those times, for all of us, can be some of the most rewarding. When you are with people you love even oppressive heat gets taken down a few notches. There is no doubt that in our travels we will be back again. We are spending the month of July in the Boston area at a lake front property owned by the brother of our dear friend Terry. We have our son and daughter-in-law close by in Cambridge along with cousins in Brookline and long-time friends in the Charlton area. Eastern Massachusetts has been a great place, so far, to explore, eat, drink and visit with folks we love. It has also given us a chance to have some needed maintenance done on our rig and unwind and recharge after our first 6 months on the road. Even though our pace has been relatively slow, the extra downtime is a good thing. There are a number of ways full time travelers can go about their lives, fast and furious or slow gin fizz style. We prefer the more, easy going pace as it gives us a chance to change our neighborhoods at a comfortable pace and have a chance to taste the coffee and smell the roses without feeling like we have to keep moving to be somewhere else. Our initial research of the RV lifestyle kept stressing that a mistake made by newbies was rushing to see and do everything with the end result being that you see and do very little, except for driving, at that accelerated travel pace. Being well seasoned travelers, we knew that pace was not going to sit well with us.
So, what do we like about the area other than the opportunity to spend time with our kids, family and friends? Answer is, architecture, culture, scenery, food and drink. Now, that being a mouthful, let’s break it down. The architecture, especially in Boston and surrounding areas is a visual playground for Janet and me. Both of us are architectural nerds and having experienced some of the most exciting examples, especially on our travels to Europe, Boston and the metro area does not disappoint. There is nothing worse than coming into an area and finding that new construction has all but obliterated the beauty of iconic architectural styles. We are finding that although there is a lot of new construction the city planners have not forgotten the importance of preserving the old styles that help to keep the history of the area alive. Places where history comes alive for us were the city of Boston, Cambridge, Brookline, Concord, Lexington and Lincoln. By no means are these the only areas but out of the ones we visited, the best example of life here beginning in the 1600’s. Culture in this part of New England is like any other major city, diverse and eclectic. Being a hub for some of the most prestigious institutes of higher learning there are students coming here from all parts of the globe, bringing with them their native cultures and giving exposure to all who are interested. The essence of what our great country is about, a cultural melting pot and yes, it is a beautiful thing. The scenery is diverse with a pleasant mix of urban and rural within short driving distances. This mix sits well with us and our mood. As for food and drink, there is one culinary choice that stands far out from the rest…Seafood. How can we come here and not have chowda, losbsta, shellfish and other swimming delights? Without going overboard, no pun intended, fish here is king. If you like brewskis, like we do, the Boston area has its fill of excellent craft breweries. What’s next for us? We are still here for a few more weeks before moving on and our plan is to keep visiting with family and friends until they are totally sick of us. We will continue to explore, eat, drink and recharge ourselves as we get ready for more. The old question, what came first, the chicken or the egg. As sailors and now full time RVers we hear and read the statement with the frequency of an over-active bladder. Is it about the journey or the destination? Walt Whitman sums it up well when he penned, “Not I, nor anyone else can travel that road for you. You must travel it by yourself. It is not far. It is within reach. Perhaps you have been on it since you were born and did not know. Perhaps it is everywhere – on water and land”. Satisfaction, success, adventure are all journeys not destinations and as it has been said, the doing is often more important than the outcome. Yes, we plan a trip to the Caribbean and venture there for the purpose of sun, relaxation, adventure, food, culture etc. or Europe or a cruise or down the road to a favorite alone spot. All are destinations that require some type of journey. When you focus on the journey, getting to the destination opens up a treasure chest of learning and enlightenment. The journey helps you to grow personally and prepares you for your enjoyment of the destination.
Over the past six months as full time Rvers and during our lives as avid, ongoing, travelers we continue to learn the practice of slowing down and smelling the roses. Our RV journey has been unlike other newbies simply because we have been moving from place to place at a snail’s pace. We read about RVers that are driving long hours and huge distances almost daily to get somewhere with a focus on the destination while seemingly trying to get through the journey as quickly as possible. Now, understand, there is no right or wrong with traveling this way. Personal comfort and threshold dictate the method for getting somewhere. The point is, when there is an insignificant journey, it’s like getting to the end of a book without reading the story. The destination should actually be what sparks you to set out on the journey. So, you could say, the journey is the body of the story with potentially a number of destinations. Skipping the journey can disrupt the process. Journey vs destination, the question goes unanswered only to be left for travelers of all types to debate. Our journey, so far, in our RV lifestyle, has been interesting with ups and downs, destinations of interest and destinations that without the excitement planning the journey would seem mundane. We have, hopefully, many more journeys to come with bucket list destinations along the way. Life itself certainly is a journey with many known and unknown destinations. Here’s hoping your journeys take you to fulfilling destinations wherever that may be. The photographs below were taken in and around Croton on the Hudson, NY. Whether you grew up there or not most people have heard about the Jersey Shore. Some of the most spectacular beaches in the world with entertainment, great food, drink and of course Jersey folks. As a kid the family would pack up for the summer and rent a house in Bradley Beach, right off the boardwalk. Fun times running around, family, bar-b-ques, my dad and uncles taking the train down on Fridays for the weekend, the sunburns cooled with rags that my grandmother soaked in vinegar laid across our shoulders and of course, the beach and boardwalk. Janet, being a NY girl, had similar summer experiences at Rockaway Beach in Queens, NY until she moved to Jersey as a teen and Bradley Beach and the Jersey Shore became part of her. Going back to Bradley and Asbury Park brought back lots of memories for both of us. We drove the streets we had known looking at the typical Jersey Shore residential architecture along with new builds that had taken over the locations like the Loraine Hotel and many of the shops that we frequented. It is hard to explain the emotion that comes over you as memories of events and people, many of them gone now, flood your head and heart.
We drove through Ocean Grove, or as my grandfather called it, Ocean Grave and on to Asbury Park, just a short ride up the coast. Asbury, that was where the amusement rides and boardwalk food, stands and shops put happy faces on kids and adults alike for decades. Gone is some of the old school charm but a few of the iconic places are still there and thriving. The Stone Pony where Bruce Springsteen first played in 1974, Wonder Bar, the Asbury Park Convention Center where many world-famous music acts graced the stage are still operating. We reminisced about going to a Linda Ronstadt/ Jackson Brown concert at the convention center back in the early 70’s. Janet and I decided to spend the day at the beach before the show that evening and while walking around came across Linda Ronstadt with a few band members getting some sun on blankets in the sand. We went up to her and she graciously engaged us in conversation. Janet told her we were going to the show and wished her well. We were wrapping up our stay in Jersey. It is always a thrill to go “back home”. They say you can take the boy or girl out of Jersey, but you can never take Jersey out of the boy or girl. We have not lived there for many years but what is in our blood can never be purged. It was a pretty easy road trip with the coach and car towed behind up the New Jersey Turnpike and across the Tappan Zee (Mario Cuomo Bridge) into Tarrytown, NY where we spent a magnificent week in Croton on the Hudson. Looking forward to sharing the area with stories and photographs. Being native to New Jersey, Janet and I refer to the State as just Jersey. A State with much diversity, including productive farms, forests, mountains, lush countryside, an industrial eastern corridor with transportation, shipping, refineries, tourism and corporate bases. Not to forget, some of the finest ocean shoreline in the world.
Our visit through the State started on the southern tip, Cape May, as we entered via ferry from Delaware. Jersey is divided into two major areas, North Jersey which is metro NYC and South Jersey being metro Philadelphia. Having grown up in the northeastern part of the State, South Jersey had a foreign flair to it. We did not travel there often. Cape May area was, for the most part, a first for us. Verdict is we found it to be a beautiful area replete with everything and more you would expect from the Garden State. Ok, short of sounding like a travel PSA for Jersey we had fun exploring, relaxing, meeting up with good friends, eating great Jersey food and enjoying our explorations. We will not forget fresh seafood and the best pizza to be found anywhere. We have eaten pizza everywhere we have travelled and lived in the US and Europe. Hands down, the best of the best for us is in Jersey and NYC. Yeah, we know there is a lot of debate but all we have to say is "fuhgeddaboudit". What visit to South Jersey would be complete without a stop in Philly? We had the opportunity to trek into Queen Village. As the oldest settled area of Philadelphia, Queen Village contains many of the city's oldest houses with most of them a part of the National historic registry. The neighborhood was incorporated in 1762 by English settlers and has an eclectic ethnic flair. On recommendation from our cousins, we ate lunch in the iconic Famous 4th St Deli. This Jewish eatery was established in 1923 and has a menu that rivals imagination. We shared a gigantic tuna fish sandwich and a potato knish. Holyyyyyyy...smokes, was all we could manage to say. The food was just short of orgasmic. Stay tuned as we move further north in the State. Looking forward to seeing family and friends, exploring familiar ground, reinforcing old memories, eating some fresh bagels and of course, pizza. “Something told us it’s all happening at the zoo, we do believe it, we do believe it’s true” … Ok, you might be saying zoos are a terrible habitat for keeping animal’s captive. Well, in many parts of the world that is true. Conditions are often times less than acceptable and even on the verge of animal cruelty. We have to say we were pleasantly surprised during our visit to the Cape May County Park and Zoo in Cape May Court House. This pristine property, donated by the Matthews family, once housed their plantation here in southern Jersey. What was so impressive to us was the animals that require free range habitats were given acres of space to roam and graze. The air had a crisp clean aroma, partly, we are sure, because of the beautiful weather conditions and excellent grounds keeping in the park. Jersey has a reputation, especially from folks who have not lived there or only associate the state with the ports and industry in the metropolitan Newark corridor. Contrary to that assumption and not speaking of the politics or high property taxes, Jersey is a beautiful state replete with farmland, mountains, pristine lakes and rivers, a world-famous shoreline, boatloads of history and food that is not rivaled anywhere on the globe. So now that we have given our pitch for the state, let us tell you more about the zoo. We walked quite a bit following the well-marked paths guiding us to the different animal and bird habitats. Photos, photos and more photos are always a must everywhere we go. Due to muscle and joint damage from my past health crisis, I use a cane to help me keep at an acceptable pace and steady on my feet, so I don’t fall on my face. What do you do with a cane when you are taking photographs? Sometimes hand it off to Janet or lean it against anything available. While visiting the Leopard habitat we crossed a bridge overlooking the area. Cardinal rule, do not lean a cane on the rails of a fence. Why you might ask? Reason is, the cane will inadvertently fall into an area where you might never see it again and fall it did. We were not climbing into a Leopard habitat to retrieve the walking stick. We reported the mishap to the office. They called the next day letting us know they retrieved it. The last time that happened to me was on a prior visit to Hoboken, NJ and while photographing the NYC skyline on the Jersey side of the Hudson River I did the same thing (of course I sometimes don’t learn lessons), I leaned the cane against the fence and watched it fall through the rungs into the Hudson River, never to be seen again. We are sure that someday in a few hundred years when they dredge the river my Bat Masterson replica cane will become a museum artifact. The DELMARVA (Delaware, Maryland, Virginia) Peninsula is an east coast strip running from the Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel north for 170 miles. The ecological haven is rich with farming and sea life. We spent a week exploring this visually interesting area with stays on a Harvest Host and Boondockers Welcome property. This fairly narrow land mass had lots of great seafood restaurants, quaint historic towns and plenty of places for provisioning. The laid-back culture made for a relaxing time. Newfound friends, Theresa and Ken, live in the area we called home and it was great to have the opportunity to meet up and spend some quality time. We hope to have the chance to get together in the future. Our Boondockers Welcome host was very engaging as well and we enjoyed the time spent with him and on his rural property. Being on the road gives us a chance to meet so many interesting folks. Sharing stories and information makes the experience very rewarding. Two of the highlights of our stay in DELMARVA were a wonderful seafood dinner, on the water, for Janet’s birthday and a visit to a quality winery in Lewes. Our shellfish dinner and bottle of white along with the perfect waterfront setting was memorable. We spent several hours enjoying the food, drink and moment. Wine is literally everywhere, and first reaction is generally based on area. Well, truth be told, you don’t need to be in Napa or Virginia to experience a solid product. You need several things to produce the fruit of the vine. The proper terroir, the environmental factors necessary for vitis vinifiera grape growth, mature vines, careful viticulture and a winemaker who is knowledgeable and trained in winemaking. If you have all of that there is a chance that balanced wine can be produced. Proof in the pudding is amount of quality wine being produced in many unsuspecting parts of the planet. We love wine and have years of experience and education that help us to know what we don’t like. It has taken many more years to develop a sense of what we do like and why we like it. A fun hobby that goes with us wherever we travel. Wine snobs, no, just lovers of the all aspects of the grape. Our journey will continue as we take the Lewes Ferry to Cape May, NJ. No matter where we travel, or live Jersey is our home. The Garden State, once in your blood, never leaves. The state gets a bad rap, but it truly is a diverse land mass and a beautiful one at that. |
About UsTravel is living life to its fullest. Sharing our journey and adventures create memories that live on as we truly enjoy the passage of time Archives
October 2022
|